Flounced Top Pattern Drafting and Grading.
The way the flounce hangs and drapes is mostly dependent on the type and weight of the fabric. Neoprene seems to be the popular choice especially since a fabric without a distinct wrong or right side (such as Neoprene) is best for the style. When I used woven fabric, the fabric had a distinct wrong side so I self-lined the flounce as the fabric was quite lightweight.
The focus of this tutorial is on the upper part so you can add a peplum or whatever to it if you wish. Also, I will be drafting the neck with a neckband and not a collar. I have seen both variations. For example, the model in black top and blue jeans above has a collar on hers while the black top on black pants has a collar hers. The tutorial images are pretty self-explanatory but I will be adding some explanations below each.
Starting with a bodice block. The block I used is designed for woven, it is fitted, designed to have sleeves, and has wearing ease of 3" and 2" at bust and waist respectively. If you do not have bodice blocks you can buy yours from my Etsy store. the block also comes with sleeves.
1.Make necessary reductions to make the block suitable for a sleeveless armhole and for knit (neoprene) fabric if that is the fabric you intend to use. Here, I have reduced the bust circumference, reduced the armhole by raising it slightly and I reduced the waist circumference since. My bodice now has ease of 1.5" at bust and 1" at the waist (you can make zero at the waist).
2. I also connected the waist dart to the shoulder dart at Apex (marked "X") so that I can transfer the shoulder dart to the waist.
1. Trace a 1.25" wide band on both back and front as shown. The front neckline is lowered by 1/2 to 3/4" before tracing out the neckband.
2. Mark a notch/balance mark about on the front neckline at least 1" from the centre-front. This notch, apart from helping to match the neckband to the front also marks the point where the flounce turns over.
3. You should also mark a notch/balance mark at the back neckline.